Normally seen as just a hop off point to Koh Chang (and a place we got stuck for one extra night with absolutely nothing to do because we didn’t buy our return tickets in advance), there are actually much much more to Trat than that.
About 4-5 hours from Bangkok to Trat in a van, Baan Laem Makham is a small sub-district of Laem Ngob.
The small community has a small community center comprises of a cluster of buildings with a multi-purpose area for events, community meetings, and other community activities.
Baan Laem Makham
Baan Laem Makham is a small sub-district of Laem Ngob district in Trat province. The name came from a combination of ‘Laem’ which mean sharp point to refer to the dagger-like shape of the area stretching out into the Gulf of Thailand; and ‘Makham’ which refer the giant tamarind tree. It is believed that this giant tamarind tree is revered by the people in the community for they believed that a powerful protective entity is residing in the tree.
Baan Laem Makham offers an eco-tourism opportunity like no other. The area is surrounded by lush mangrove forests which acts as an important lifeline to the people and the wildlife in the area. The district offers daily tours on long-tail boats with grumpy-looking grandpa boat drivers.
It was drizzling the whole time I was there but at least it wasn’t hot. I just had to keep my camera dry instead. About half an hour in, the rain finally eased up and everything calmed and quieted down and we all piled onto a few longtail boats and we were off into the beautiful mangrove maze. What a refreshing change from being in the concrete jungle of Bangkok.
About 30-45 minutes of boat ride later, we arrived at the dagger point where the mangrove forests end and the Gulf of Thailand begins. The wildlife including the local white-neck hawks, egrets, and troops of monkeys greeted us. They probably thought, “what curious short-nosed, orangy animals on floaty things are these?”
We were told that we won’t be able to dive for the shells today since it has been raining for hours prior. The water level was just too high. What a shame.
We lingered in the wide open space at the edge of the forest and the endless body of water stretched out before us. It was a bit gloomy and grey but it was oh-so-calm.
Then we went to visit Ajarn Sompoj Wasukri, a former director of Laem Ngob Community School who has turned a part of his own home into an education center documenting numerous travel stories and images of King Rama V. He is very devout to His Majesty King Rama V’s memories and his deeds during his reign. He enthusiastically told us about all the stories about King Rama V.
His Majesty’s travels overseas, the truce and partnerships with western countries, the colonization in the area, his cleverness and political agility. He is absolutely passionate about the subject. If you ever visit, please make sure you make time for a visit to the education center. It’s a great learning experience. The education center opens daily free of charge.
Wat Laem Makham
We then went to Wat Laem Makham, the community’s Buddhist temple famous for the exquisite murals inside depicting King Rama V’s travels and stories when he visited the area. The murals depict the time during the Paknam crisis in 1893 when the French troops occupied the western part of Chanthaburi province.
The Siamese government decided to surrender Trat province area to French Indochina in order to regain Chanthaburi province in 1904. Years went by, the French troops requested an exchange. They wanted to return Trat province to Siam for the areas along the Mekhong River, namely Battambang, Siam Nakhon, and Sisophon). The treaty was signed on March 23, 1906, and the date is considered as Trat’s Independence day until now.
The legends of To Wali
To Wali, local language meaning a kind elderly gentleman who came with the water is another important religious center for the Muslims that, oddly enough, resides right inside Wat Laem Makham’s premise.
To Wali is a large log situated in a shrine covered with golden silk cloth with offering table to one side. There are stories about how this ‘revered log’ came to this location.
The first legend of how is an old gentleman who was traveling on a boat. He finished the freshwater rations of freshwater and this incensed the crew and other passengers. He then dipped his foot into the sea and told the people that the seawater was now fresh and it was so. The man then walked into the water and disappeared into the mangrove forests. Another legend talks of a Thai-Muslim villager who had recurring dreams of a man. This man told the villager that he was the servant of God in charge of helping the villagers. He was residing in a log behind Wat Laem Makham. The man finally went on the search and found this said log and tried to drag it to his village, but his attempts were unsuccessful. The man visited him in his dream again, told him to leave him be. This is where he needs to reside, and the villagers will live happily forever. Today, To Wali is housed in a single-store structure on the grounds of Wat Laem Makham where people can come to pay their respects.
How to get there
Despite its remote location, traveling to Baan Laem Makham is not difficult.
Take the vans from the Ekamai, Mochit, or Victory Monument terminals to Trat province. The vans leave daily, and it takes about 4-5 hours from Bangkok to Trat.
Once in Trat, take the songthaew marked “Trat-Laem Ngob”. The route will take you through Baan Laem Makham.
Don’t forget to tell the drivers where you’re going because you might just miss it.
This beautiful exploration is made possible with the assistance of the Tourism Authority of Thailand. The Village Tourism 4.0 initiative offers local tourism excursions in ten different communities across Thailand. For more information, please visit: www.tourismthailand.org
